Sunday, September 6, 2009

Week 4: the crash of my physical health and Vinh Ha Long

This week I witnessed (or actually more like experienced painfully) the crash of my physical health. Immediately after I recovered from the intestine-melting diarrhea that plagued my senses for 2 days last weekend, I began sneezing and having sinus problems. It ultimately got much worse by Tuesday as I began coughing in addition to having a nose that wouldn't shut up. By night I was coughing my lungs out and blowing my nose until my skull hurt. Then I got a massive headache from heavy congestion in the nose and almost threw up. I was pretty miserable this entire week as I couldn't think properly from the sickness and began missing my mommy and daddy even more. I don't know where I got all these symptoms from. My roommate got sick over the weekend, but according to his medical results on Friday it was his old malaria virus that was acting up. I've been told that malaria is not contagious so I probably didn't get sick from him, even though I began showing symptoms a day after him. So there I was, sneezing and blowing nose and coughing and wanting to fly back to america. On Thursday Gerard wanted me to go to the hospital to check if I had the swine flu. I was like no fucking way, I am far from dying. Thankfully I felt a lot better the next day so I didn't go to the hospital, and by Saturday I was fine.

So not only do I hella miss my parents now after this predicament, I'm hella missing my friends too! I've been getting all these emails and minutes from QPC planning meetings (since technically I'm still part of the committee even though I can't really do shit since I'm 9000 miles away) and reading them makes me hella miss organizing and late-night intellectual discussions about intersecting queer identities and People of Color community issues and all that good shit. FUCK! And the worst part is, I can't even attend the actual conference! QPC 2008 last year at Berkeley was the very first queer-centered conference I've ever attended, and while it definitely wasn't the best planned or the best implemented conference, it still had a very deep impression on me and gave me inspiration to continue working with the queer community, even though I still don't feel completely part of that community. QPC basically set the precedent for me for future involvement with the queer movement, and this year UCLA has the honor and privilege to host it, so I wanted to do everything I could to make sure it turns into the best queer conference ever put together. Now that I'm here across the fucking ocean, I can no longer attend those fun and intellectually-stimulating meetings NOR attend the conference. It makes me really sad that I'm not able to do more for my friends back home. I also miss APC and all my orgs and all the deep political work that I used to involve myself. I guess I've been depriving myself of politics too much here since the regulated environment doesn't call for such kind of work. Great, now I feel like I'm just babbling and not making any sense. Fuck, I'm just confused and frustrated right now. IN SHORT, I fucking miss my friends, I fucking miss organizing, I fucking miss APC, I fucking miss critical discussions about our communities and struggles, I fucking miss the events and programs we used to put on ourselves, and I'm going to fucking miss QPC at UCLA.

Okay, simmering down...

This week, despite wanting to hop on the plane and fly back to sterilized LA so I can see my parents and friends, and despite having my body crash, I had a lot of fun! On Wednesday the 2nd it was Quoc Khanh, or Vietnam's Independence Day, so we all had a day off. I wanted to go to the city to see all the celebrations and propagandas that attempt to infuse more doses of nationalist sentiment, but since no one else seemed enthused, we went to Lang Bat Trang, or Ceramics Village instead. The name speaks for itself: there was nothing there but ceramics shops. First we spent about 2 hours on the taxi since the drivers got lost and we had to go off an on-ramp in the reverse direction (thank the traffic gods there were no cars entering the freeway at that time) and the bill came out to almost VND 200000 (about USD 11-12, which is a phenomenal price in Viet Nam). Then when we finally arrived at the village after having no fucking clue where the drivers were taking us, we had a very late lunch where a lot of white people also ate. Then we lingered for a while longer before heading into a shop to make our own ceramics. This was my first time doing ceramics, and it was a lot of fun! I got clay all over my shoes and some on my legs and shirt, which was annoying. Tracey and I also struggled to make something recognizable with our clay and we weren't too successful, so in the end we didn't take anything home.

Check out these amazing ceramic things. Note the female figures bottom-center bending over. Hella sexist!

These have got to be the worst imitation Pokemon I've ever seen

Trying to make something that looks like something. And failing!

On Friday we celebrated Kim Anh's birthday. We went to a hella bougie Vietnamese restaurant and then went to karaokeing. I've noticed that so far at all of our KTV sessions, we always sing the following all-time classic american songs: anything from that slut britney spears, a few songs from that shit band backstreet boys and/or n'sync, "Two Become One" by spice girls, "Hotel California" by the Eagles, "A Whole New World" by whoever sings that song, and maybe a few more. It's really hard to find a place here with a good selection of american songs, so we usually tend to just sing whatever we know, which typically meant the above songs. But the one we went to for Kim Anh was really good! There was also a collection of Mandarin songs, so I sang "The Moon Represents My Heart" by the greatest Taiwanese singer ever Teresa Teng, and that ridiculous sappy song "Tonghua" by a not-so-talented Taiwanese singer Guang Liang, which featured the actual music video of that song, which was about 7 minutes long. Basically in the video, a Korean-drama style story was shown, where the girl falls over from sickness all of a sudden and the guy has to take her to the hospital and is left with a sick girlfriend who probably has terminal illness, like cancer or some shit like that. I would like to think Taiwanese people have MUCH more creativity and originality than Korean people, but I guess not, and that makes me sad (no offense to Koreans or people who enjoy Korean dramas).

Chuc mung sinh nhat Kim Anh!

Then on Saturday morning at 7 AM, 15 of us went to VINH HA LONG (Ha Long Bay)! It was a 3.5-hour bus ride there, but it was all worth it. I'll go ahead and let these pictures speak for themselves.

The beds on our junkboat. They were really comfortable!

Service bar

Our lunch feast

A split rock!

This looks like a rhino with half its head submerged. Can you see it?

Isn't it so gorgeous?

Exploring a giant cave

It looks like a penis! Naturally I was drawn to it

Group photo in the cave!

We swam on this beach

We also went kayaking (which I didn't get to take any photos of). It was again my first time doing it, and it was SO MUCH FUN! It was basically 2 people per kayak, and Kim Anh and I kayaked to two islands, where on one of them there were a bunch of small dark crabs crawling around, and on another there were all these beautiful shells that probably just washed ashore from the sea (and I took 2 of the coolest looking ones). It was quite exhausting, but at some points we just sat there and floated in the middle of the sea. It was so relaxing. Definitely one of the funnest things I've ever done. Shit, I would do anything to go back there and experience that again!

What a twisted week! It was both miserable and amazing at the same time. I've been having too much fun here. I am now upon the realization that I haven't done ANY reading for my classes. Yes, I DO have classes here and I DO have assignments! Shieeeet, this ain't no vacation like I thought it was. But as long as I don't get anything lower than C's I'm happy. Wow did I just say that? What happened to my high standards?

Till next week!

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Week 3: starting to miss LA a little bit. Just a little bit!

Ugh what a horrible week. On Thursday a bunch of us went to Thai Express (where Tam and I ate last time) to have dinner, and I ended up ordering 2 meals since the portions were fucking small. After devouring my yellow curry I decided to order an extra prawn omelet just to fill my stomach up. I also had a glass of not-too-sweet Thai tea and 2 scoops of coconut ice cream with some bites of fried banana (oh god that ice cream and fried banana were to DIE FOR. They were better than orgasm, literally). Anyway, I don't know whether it was the quality of food or quantity of food, but later that night I went to bed with a big tummy ache. It continued throughout the night, but it wasn't enough to make me want to use the toilet. Then morning came and I totally had to run, and my intestines felt like they were ready to burst. I had to skip class since my upper belly was still excruciatingly painful and I didn't want to go anywhere. I was feeling quite okay later that afternoon as I went on the class fieldtrip to The Manor (see below), with off-and-on intestine pains that didn't bother me too much. I was fine till the next day, when I had to run two more times. But after that till as of now (Sunday afternoon), my stomach has been fairly quiet.

I've also begun doing most of my own laundry by hand, since the cleaning personel isn't very trustworthy. I do a small batch twice or thrice a week, and each time it takes about an hour to do. Hella waste of time! It's also kind of physically demanding, since I either have to bend my back to scrub the clothes or squat. Fuck, how did people do this back then when there were no washing machines?

I hella miss them days when I didn't have rupturing intestines or explosive diarrhea or bend-over stomach pains or have to wash clothes by hand. Having such severe stomach problems made me miss LA, where my first-world stomach is fit for, and where there are machines that clean for you. And of course I miss my parents and friends there too. God someone please come visit me here so we can share this misery!

Irregardless, this week had been really fun too! On Tuesday we all went to Hanoi Opera House to watch/listen to the Vietnamese symphony orchestra. We were hooked up with free tickets paid for by eap, so it was hella amazing. Since I didn't have any formal or semi-formal clothes to wear (who knew I was gonna need them here!?), on Monday night I went to the Korean store to buy a semi-formal dress shirt for VND 180000 (about USD 10). It looks pretty good and the quality should be ok.

The opera house was pretty small inside, but it was nevertheless very pretty. The symphony was pretty good too. The conductor was a Spanish dude and the soloist was a Vietnamese dude who looked very handsome in the program and from the second-floor balcony, but not so much in person. Either way, we all had fun enjoying the music and taking pictures in the glamorous opera house. After that we all went to an american restaurant called Al Fresco's (or something) to eat a giant late dinner.

Group photo in front of the Opera House! Everyone looks so nice

The symphony

The inside was really pretty

There's the Vietnamese soloist in the center with the funky-looking shirt

Our fieldtrip this week was to The Manor, a living/shopping headquarters that is exclusively for rich shit-fuckers. It's basically one of those completely gated and isolated "communities" where inhabitants are monitored and outsiders are prohibited from entering, multiple security guards stand around and make sure everyone is following the rules, and built according to western styles, such as bright uni-color towers, palm trees, swimming pools, etc. No reference to local culture or characteristics whatsoever. We came here for the fieldtrip since we were discussing urban development and what that means for public space and traditional street and collective lifestyles.

The Manor's exclusionary policies (no outsiders, no photos, inhabitants must get permission to have guests over) as well as its "paid privacy" measures make the entire "community" deserted, quiet, and (to me) oppressive. There was no one roaming the courtyards or deserted roads, a few customers at the KFC and coffee shop and Korean convenience store, and barely anyone shopping at the large bougie-ass department store. It made me kind of depressed to see such large areas that were supposed to be for socializing, laughing, and enjoying free time, but were instead used to regulate the daily activities of people. I have a lot more to say about this in my class blog, please take a look if you're interested! http://tacnguyen.blogspot.com.

Main entrance to The Manor. For more pictures go to my class blog! http://tacnguyen.blogspot.com

Saturday was Chau's birthday, so we all went to celebrate. Gerard reserved seats for us in this really delicious street restaurant with typical Vietnamese dishes. Since I was still recovering from my gut-tearing diarrhea, I only had one bowl of rice (which I mixed with canh chua, or sour soup, so it becomes porridge and easy on the stomach) and a few bites of the other food, like this vegetable that was just like Chinese watercress (my favorite vegetable), shrimp, and pork. Then the cake Thuy Vy ordered arrived and we all sang happy birthday and devoured that delicious cake.

Yum. Too bad my stomach didn't allow me to enjoy the most of it

Group photo! There's the birthday girl in the middle!

After the joyous occasion, I and four others decided to go to Vincom Tower to watch another movie. We watched The Proposal, which was actually quite good! I was nonchalant about it since that was the best movie out of a list of unappealing ones, but it ended up being decent. I definitely recommend it! And Ryan Reynolds is a fucking hottie. That's a plus.

Week 3 is ovah! Next weekend we're going to HA LONG BAY!!! Woot! More on that next week. We each had to pay VND 900000 (about USD 52) for this trip, so it better be worth it.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Week 2: Classes and reunions and lots of other stuff

Holy shit. This week was crazy eventful. I certainly won't remember everything that happened but here goes nothing!

On Sunday, Trang and I went to Pho Co to meet up with DENNIS. Crazy! Dennis is currently on a 5-week program in Hue in central Viet Nam and he was visiting Ha Noi for the weekend with his peeps. After a hectic hour of trying to locate each other on the deadly small maze-streets of Pho Co, we finally found each other and had some food. Trang and Dennis were on the AAS Hawai'i program last year, so it was such a scary coincidence. We reminisced the good ole days before heading to Cho Dong Xuan (Dongxuan Market) to do some shopping. Actually I was the only one who ended up buying anything: 4 pairs of shorts for VND 200000, about USD 11-12, which is pretty good (we tried haggling and this was the best we could do. Some pairs cost as much as VND 70000-80000, and some salespeople just shooed us away when we merely offered a slightly lower price). Dennis had to leave by 3 PM, so Trang and I met up with the rest of our group at Dong Xuan (where I sampled some weird dried fruits before settling on a box of dried kiwis, the only thing I found sweet enough).

Sampling dried fruits. Can you spot the kiwi?

On Monday, we officially began classes. NOOOOOOOOOOO. Actually it wasn't too bad since it was just tieng Viet (Vietnamese). Apparently the professors were so impressed with my tieng Viet "skills" (skills? I have tieng Viet skills?) during placement test that they considered putting me in advanced. Thank the language gods that didn't happen as I was placed in intermediate instead; otherwise I would've surely flunked the first class. Irregardless, the first class was still quite difficult. Our professor, Co Ha, handed out a set of vocabulary for us to know and practice with, mostly greeting/expression words/idioms like tinh hinh (situation), trom via (an "empty" word without meaning to address a good child in order to fool the gods so they won't come to kidnap the child), trung qua dam (to hit the jackpot), and my favorite, chan nhu con gian ("bored as a cockroach"). Then as in-class exercises we had to make conversations with each other with these new words. It was goddamn hard since I was the only one in class who doesn't speak tieng Viet, so I couldn't construct sentences fast enough or understand the other students. Co Ha also spoke hella fast; I could not understand anything she said. Basically when she asked me questions or made a comment, I could only go "huh?" and look to Trang (who sat next to me) for help or utter "khong hieu" ("don't understand"). So fucking embarrassing! Despite all that, the class was still fun, especially since Co Ha is utterly obsessed with relationships/boyfriends/girlfriends (just like every other person in Viet Nam, it's such a big deal here to be in relationships, and monogamous ones at that) so she kept asking everyone about our relationships and whether we miss our nguoi yeu (love person) and for those of us who don't have a nguoi yeu, why we don't have one.

Wednesday was much better. Since someone in class suggested to Co Ha that we should learn the alphabet first before going into all these hardcore vocabulary, Co Ha decided to use the entire classtime to teach us the Vietnamese alphabet. That was good for me since I already knew it! Yay! So for the entire class, the room resonated with hilarious sounds and tones and glottal noises as students twisted their throats and lips and tongues and teeth to make the large variety of labial, dental, alveolar, fricative, glottal, and nasal sounds of the Vietnamese language. Then there were the tones. Non-smooth tones like the dipping dau hoi (the question mark ?) and the tumbling/glottal dau nga (the tilde mark ~) were the most entertaining to say. We all had fun with it, even Co Ha, who couldn't stop laughing at Mindy trying to say the dau hoi. After the tones, we went into vowel combinations, which are extremely wide in variety and heavily used in the language. I was glad I was already taught all these back in the states, or else I would've been as confused as all the other students.

On Thursday we started Gerard's globalization in Southeast Asia class, the one with the group of local HANU students. The class was three freakin hours long. Shit. The only time I've ever had a 3-hour massive torture was back in second year when I had that god-forsaken public health internship training shithole sanity-destroying class. While Gerard's class was undoubtedly a million times more interesting than that blasted spirit-draining public health shit, the length of the class still took its toll. Within an hour I was already tired, even though I woke up at 12 since the class was at 1:30. My seatmates were also tired, so that was no inspiration for me to stay alert. While I didn't fall asleep, my mind certainly was wandering off into space and I was daydreaming about nothing in particular. I hope next week would be different though, since it is a very interesting class and very personally relevant.

On Friday, we all went to the computer lab to learn how to type in tieng Viet. The computers use a certain typing program that I don't have, but it was pretty convenient and I will go look for the program online after I finish this post. Anyways, the professors basically wanted us to type some passages and go on facebook to post them (in what classes will we ever hear the professors say "now log onto facebook" again?). Then we had a lesson on SMS in tieng Viet, which was absolutely ludicrous. The rules make no sense and we decided that we would probably never use that crazy system ever. So in other words it was a waste of time. Either way, the class was awesome since we just sat there and used facebook and watched in amusement and awkwardness as Co Ha tried to flirt very overtly with Gerard.

On Friday afternoon, we went to Lang Huu Nghi (Friendship Village). This is a place where second-generation survivors of Agent Orange (the ones who were born with birth defects by parents immediately exposed to the toxin) stay at to learn basic survival and livelihood skills such as sewing and using the computer. These warriors live with a wide variety of different-ableness: some are mentally impaired, some are speech or hearing impaired, some growth impaired, etc. Some actually also reminded me of one of my uncles, my Hsiao Chiu-chiu, mother's youngest brother, who was born mentally differently-abled. We visited some classes in small groups to interact with them, and some of us including me also went to other buildings such as the living headquarters and the clinic to see the conditions of the place. I wished I knew tieng Viet so I could have spoken to some of them. Going to such a place was a new experience, seeing with my own eyes the effects of war and institutional neglect (those mystified and glorified images of extreme and traumatic deformities that we usually see in the media, we did not see here, since, as Gerard explained, there had been changes in policy recently in this village that only those who are still able to learn/perform tasks are allowed to stay). This trip very much reinforced my views on war and the destruction it brings as well as the raw humanity and the drive to survive and flourish that exists in all people. I did not take any pictures of this place, as I wish to respect the sanctity of this space (however institutional and flawed it is), uphold the dignity of these warriors, and view them as fellow agents of change rather than objects on display (this I find to be a universal problem existing in all "preservation" institutions such as museums, displaying objects of a "different" and "exotic" and (often) minority people/culture, stagnant in space and time, ever unchanging in the face of "development," and readily consumable for privileged observers, as well as other spaces such as gay clubs to which heterosexuals flock for personal entertainment and use that as justification for being "gay-friendly" and "understanding" of the struggles of the queer community).

Friday night was night market time. We went to Ha Noi's major night market by Ho Hoan Kiem and spent a grueling 3 hours there (for me and Chanh, the guys). The place barely had anything for the men, so for the entire time the 2 of us just stood there with the girls with our feet and legs sore from standing and doing nothing. There were some stores that sold men's clothing, but men's fashion here is so strange for us that we had no desire to purchase anything. The ladies had fun though, so good for them. Also, the night market didn't have any FOOD. What the fuck! That made me hella miss Taiwanese night markets, where besides just clothing and souvenirs, there are abundant delicacies and street games to play. This night market, while humongous (we didn't even walk the entire length of it when the clock hit 11 PM), can't even compare to Taiwanese night markets!

Entrance to the night market. Not very eye-catching

Yeah...pretty much all clothes and souvenirs. No food

On Saturday, I went to Pho Co to meet up with Tam. Actually, I've only met Tam once before, way back in February when we went to the premiere of Tadashi Nakamura's documentary on Chris Iijima. But we connected like old friends! We ate at this super bougie Thai restaurant by Ho Hoan Kiem where portions were hella small and prices hella jacked up. Tam is here in Ha Noi for a month for training on a program called Fulbright, where she will be teaching English in Da Nang university for 10 months (she's already leaving next weekend to go to Da Nang. So soon!). Then I visited the hotel she was staying at, which was also quite bougie. Then I took her to a bia hoi place on Ly Thuong Kiet street to meet up with most of the EAPers and a few of the local HANU students. Tam totally fit right in. After a few hours of beer and fried frogs, we went to Dragonfly, THE bar that foreigners go to. It certainly was better than the one we went to last week in terms of space and atmosphere (the space was actually only slightly larger, but sufficient, and it was hella more crackin than last week's place). Our group, like the last time, was the first to operate the dancefloor (the DJ played hip-hop! Such a relief from last week's trance), but what was different this time was that the rest of the people began dancing too shortly after. Still, the men couldn't dance to save themselves, especially the middle-aged and older men, who were quite disturbing to watch. There was this old white guy, white hair and all, who was grinding this other white woman. Traumatizing! If he were grinding a Vietnamese girl that would've been much worse. Thank the dancefloor gods he didn't target the Vietnamese. Either way, we all had fun and by the end my shirt was completely wet from sweat and I reeked of cigarettes.

Tam! How great to cross paths

Group photo of the girls (and me) at bia hoi

At Dragonfly. We were all hot messes

The next day, we all crawled miserably out of bed at 10 to go to Bao Tang Dan Toc Hoc Viet Nam (the Vietnam Ethnology Museum), basically a museum featuring the material culture of all 54 ethnic minorities in Viet Nam (Tam also met us there). See above for my feelings about the museum space. Despite that, the museum was interesting as we got to see material representations of the lives of ethnic minorities in this country. I saw an exhibition on Highway 9, a road that links central Viet Nam with Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar and is touted to be one of the most significant economic driving forces of these 4 countries. It was enlightening to read about this corridor of development and the consequences it has brought on the local populations, particularly the environmental degradations that have already taken place and will continue on as development carries further. There was also a giant-ass garden where traditional houses of the different ethnic minorities could be seen. We were allowed to go inside these structures, but had to take off shoes, so I didn't get to go into any since I was too lazy to take off my shoes each time. There were also hella newlyweds taking their photos since the garden was such a pretty place. Unfortunately we were only there for about 2 hours, which was NOT enough time to look at all the exhibits. But I will be back in the future at least 2 more times for class, so I'll just save the rest for next time. I also bought some stuff from the museum gift shop, where all proceeds go back to the ethnic minorities.

Entrance to the museum

Trang and I in front of some thing

A traditional long house of an ethnic group in the garden

Newlyweds taking their damn photos. Oh the heteroness

Then Chi and Linh (HANU folks) took the group to Pho Co (god I've been there so many times already) to have some weirdass food and hoa qua dam (Vietnamese fruit shaved ice, my FAVORITE dessert so far). Afterward some of us decided to go back home, and Tam took the rest to her hotel to chill before we went to see a traditional music performance at the Trung Tam Van Hoa Thang Long (Thang Long Culture Center). We said goodbye to Tam at 4 and headed for the location, where we were given a brief history lesson about Ca Tru, traditional Vietnamese chamber music, and then saw a very interesting set of performances featuring dancers, singers, drummers, and the phach (a percussion instrument) and dan day (a 3-stringed lute instrument). We all got to take pictures with the performers after the show, which was pretty awesome.

Week 2: over and out. Fuck, time seems to flyyyyyy here. Only 15 weeks left in Ha Noi! I better start cherishing more moments here instead of just running around the city all the time...

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Week 1: Getting used to Hanoi

Note: our dorm internet has been down for days now, so this post is hella behind schedule. Also i cannot put any pictures up due to this fiasco. So enjoy!

Here are some interesting things about Hanoi that I've observed over the week:

1. People get up hella early. Like 4 or 5 AM. By extension, breakfast is no longer served by 8 or 9 AM. So for us college kids who would like some breakfast, we would need to shift our biological clocks just a bit. For this week this has been no problem due to jetlag, but who knows how long this would last...

2. Automobile drivers like to honk. A lot. Especially truck drivers who have the loudest horns at their disposal. The streets are booming with honks continuously. There is no moment during which there is no honking. Truck horns are so loud that they send chills down our spines, especially this time when we were eating lunch and a giant truck squeezed its way through the tiny alley designed for pedestrians only, and then honked for 7 seconds straight without stop, which scared us shitless. We have all resolved that we would probably be deaf by November.

2A. Traffic here is quite frightening. We had an entire orientation session dedicated to how to cross the street. Basically when wanting to cross the street, one should look both ways (because one never knows when some dumbass mofo is riding her/his moped the wrong direction) and let all big vehicles (cars, taxis, buses, trucks, etc) pass first, since they have a harder time maneuvering. Then, step into the blurring traffic. Walk slowly so the moped drivers can maneuver around you. Be on constant "negotiation" with the moped drivers by maintaining eye contact; this way, the driver will know you want to cross the street and maneuver around you. DO NOT STOP, or else you will get run over and die.

2B. The basic rule of thumb is that the larger the vehicle, the safer it is to be on it. Therefore, buses are the safest mode of transportation, followed by taxis, cars, mopeds, bikes, and foot.

2C. Because bikes are the smallest vehicles operating the road, they receive no respect from all other vehicles and thus we were recommended to NOT use a bike (unless we like to be disrespected).

2D. There are no such things as traffic lanes in Hanoi.

3. Ahh the bus system. It's actually quite useful and efficient for what it's worth. We can access downtown Hanoi and the Pho Co (Old Quarters) with the number 2 without the hassle of transfers. We also received bus passes as paid for by our program so we essentially ride them for free. Otherwise it's VND 3000 each ride, which is still extremely cheap. Each bus line operates on a 15 minute interval, so it's pretty frequent.

3A. Hanoi buses operate on a strict schedule; if the buses fall behind schedule, the driver is penalized. Therefore, the drivers usually have a (monetary) incentive to make sure they are on time and THEREFORE, they do not like to stop at bus stops. If you want to get on the bus, you need to run to it and step onto the steps before the speed picks up again. If you want to get off the bus, you cross your fingers that you won't trip and get run over by a moped or truck driving between the bus and the curb.

3B. Hanoi buses don't have a fare collecting machine. Therefore, on each bus there is a fare collector who collects money from new passengers and inspects bus passes. The fare collector usually sits or stands by the back door.

4. Taxis are generally trustworthy. The trick is to find one that has a working meter, and to make sure the driver turns it on. If the driver offers a price before driving you, AVOID IT because it's not legit. Also, always keep an eye on the meter. If it goes up too fast, it's rigged and you should get out of there as quickly as possible.

5. Hanoi men do not dance. Unless they're drunk. In such case, they put their hands up and down and shake their waists.

6. Bargaining is a tricky business. If you're lucky, you may save about VND 10000 or 20000 on your purchases. If you're unlucky, you get yelled at and shooed by the salesperson. If you're a crazy insane professional haggler, you may save up to 60 or 70% of the original price.

7. Hanoians are just hella chill people. During after-lunch naptimes, some people just lay down wherever they were conducting business and go to sleep. In afternoons, people flock to parks to play basketball or badminton. Some use sidewalks of major roads for such recreational activities. There are always people in cafes or shops enjoying tea or sinh to (smoothies) or beer. Even though things run on a schedule, people still know how to relax.

So a lot of crazy shit happened this week. We had full-on morning-to-night schedules everyday, so most of us were dead by the time we returned to our rooms. It was mostly orientation crap: sessions on how to cross the street, cross-cultural sensitivity, class availabilities, and internship/volunteering opportunities. We also had tours of certain parts of the city conducted by Gerard, ate a shitload of food, and had fun activities like going to bia hoi (basically a place for drinking beer/alcohol and eating snacks) with local HANU students from our class and karaokeing. At the bia hoi, I tried this Vietnamese distilled alcohol that had hella ginseng, herbs, and worms soaking in the bottle to add to the taste and nutritional value of the wine. It looked extremely gross, and it was hella strong and burning, but the aftertaste was quite enjoyable. It was definitely better than american alcohol, hands down. At karaokeing, it was mostly us american kids singing old american songs like "Oops I Did It Again" and "Hotel California." Some of us attempted Vietnamese songs but that was a bust.

Friday night we went clubbing. Well if you can even call it that here. The so-called "club" we went to was HELLA SMALL, with barely any room for dancing. That was probably good for the locals, since none of them freakin dance; they just stand at their tables and drink. Hella boring. So some of us cool american college kids got up on the small stage thingy in front of the DJ and shook it like a saltshaker. That ought to show them how it's supposed to be done. Eventually a group of drunk guys did make their way on stage to "dance," which consisted of an up-and-down movement of their arms. Not attractive at all. I heard that Saigon's clubs are hella better than Hanoi's. I certainly hope it's true!

Then on Saturday afternoon for 3 hours, we had an activity called "Survivor Hanoi." It was essentially a scavenger hunt of completing tasks. We were all divided up into 7 teams, each having 2 UC students and 1 HANU student, and we had until 6 PM to complete as many of the 15 tasks as we could and meet up at some cafe place in central Hanoi. We had to film almost all the tasks. Coincidentally my roommate Chanh was on my team, and our HANU teammate was a girl named Trang. We came in 4th and completed 14 tasks. The task we didn't complete was haggling for a moped (it had to be a specific type of moped too...so if we couldn't find a dealership we basically couldn't complete this). Some of the more interesting tasks include pedaling a duck-boat thingy, pedaling someone's cyclo (with the driver sitting in the passenger seat), breakdancing in Lenin Park, and my favorite: putting my arm around a cong an (police officer) and saying "Toi yeu Viet Nam!" or "I love Vietnam!" What was even cuter was that the cong an also put his arm around my waist and exclaimed "Toi yeu Viet Nam!" It was like we were BFFs.

Week 1 in Vietnam: I can't believe it's over! Classes are starting soon. Ugh, so not in the mindset for that shit right now. Also starting next week, we have to pay for everything ourselves. Wonderful.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Day 0 and 1: The longass journey to Hanoi

I hadn't gotten decent sleep for the past 2 days. I guess I was hella nervous about this upcoming sojourn, but I still wasn't feeling it. On the day of departure however, I found myself panicking and having anxiety attacks; I couldn't breathe normally, my stomach was queasy as hell, and I was constantly pacing back and forth in my room trying to distract my mind away from the thought of leaving and not coming back for months. I knew I should be excited, and I was, but somehow my body just reacted differently to this "excitement." My anxiety especially reached new levels when I was bidding farewell to both my grandmothers on the phone. This is it! I'm gonna be gone!


Thank the deities I calmed down when it was time to head out. Pa is on a business trip, so that leaves only Ma to take me to the airport. Parking is a hassle so Ma decided just to drop me off. She began to tear up as I left the car with my luggage, which gave me a lump in the throat. I guess you never really understand how much your parents love you until moments like these. I remember the countless times before the trip when I told Ma again and again that I would be fine and that she was worrying too much. I even got hella irritated with her many times, but now I think I'm beginning to understand why she was so restless about me going abroad. I promised myself I would not let her worry.


The check-in line was hella long. Thank the deities I already e-checked in the night before so I had my seat already assigned. It took about 30 minutes before I reached the counter and got my luggage checked in. Melanie arrived right when I was still in line, so I immediately called her when I finished all the procedures. Apparently this was her first time in the international terminal, and she certainly was amused by the internationalness of the place. She gave me two awesome parting gifts: one a map of Vietnam, which surprisingly I did not have, and the other the book Filipinos in Los Angeles by Mae Koerner, which even more surprisingly I did not have either! Thank you Melanie!! In exchange I gave her Taiwanese snacks. Haha, definitely not a fair trade but Melanie loves food. And then Dian arrived and we hung out for a bit on the second floor by the overpriced food places. When it was time to say goodbye because Melanie's parking was getting expensive, I reluctantly let the two go, knowing that I wouldn't see them again for months! I decided to call Annie next to ease my anxiety, who was dogsitting at the time (who knew dogsitting would be a business?) After a looong chat, I went into the security area.

Thanks for coming to hang out!! And keeping me from freaking out too much.


I tried to coordinate a meeting-up with all the other students who were on the same flight, and right before we boarded we found each other and self-introduced. There was me, Chau, Diane, and Tracey.


The plane took off a little bit behind schedule. But the flight was excellent. I loved the food of course (which was actually very filling, surprisingly), and there were personal TVs for every passenger! Unfortunately I didn't get to use it that much since I was dead-tired and slept (or more accurately attempted to sleep) most of the way. I did watch one movie, Obsessed, which I only knew from the DVD commercials I'd been seeing. The movie was hella creepy! That white obsessed girl freaked me out. She kind of looks like that convicted woman from Legally Blonde, the one who Reese Witherspoon had to defend. Then I watched a documentary on Shanghai and its transformations for the upcoming Expo in 2010, which I only half-paid attention to since my mind was hazy and shit from the red-eye flight. The flight was hella packed though, so I had no elbow and leg room, especially since the guy next to me was really buff and thus took up a lot of space. My lower back ached for pretty much the whole flight since I couldn't adjust myself to a comfortable position. I was delighted that I didn't end up with a killer migraine, which happened to me several times before from crowded seating conditions. There was also constant turbulence, although pretty small and not very scary.


We landed right on-time around 5:30 AM in Taipei Taoyuan International Airport. It felt like homecoming since I always fly this route, but at the same time it didn't since I wasn't actually going to leave the airport. The landing approach took us on a flight path over Keelung Port, the Yangming Mountains, Danshui River mouth, and most of northern coastal Taiwan. Off in the distance I could spot Taipei 101 and the Taipei Basin. And at one point it seemed as if we were so close to the Yangming Mountains that we were gonna hit it. The view was breathtaking, especially in the early morning sunlight, coupled with fog and mountains. The view made me hella nostalgic for Taiwan.


It turned out that Diane and Tracey were connecting to Hanoi on Vietnam Airlines, and that Chau and I were staying with China Airlines for this route. Basically our flight was an hour later than theirs, so we had much more time to kill. Then when we were sitting in front of the transit line and resting, we spotted a person sporting the EAP t-shirt, so we went up to the group to self-introduce. Basically this group was on the San Francisco flight, and all of them were connecting on Vietnam Airlines.


Chau and I tried to access the free wi-fi service supposedly available, but it didn't work, so we found two public computers and took advantage of the free internet. I also called home to Lao Lao to tell her I've arrived safely and was soon on my way to Hanoi.


Soon we were in the single-aisle 737, which was also packed, and it was goodbye Taipei. At this point I should be panicking, but for some reason nothing about this trip so far seemed different or out of the ordinary. I didn't feel like I was heading off into a foreign place to do foreign things. The trip seemed normal and average, like I've done it before. I don't know how I went from anxiety attacks/trouble breathing/queasy stomach to just normal feeling. Well it works out for the best.


I was especially clumsy on this flight. It must have been the lack of sleep. After breakfast, I was so dead tired I immediately fell asleep. I must have dreamt something really scary because I completely spazzed awake a moment later and almost tipped over the meal tray that was still on the traytable. The Japanese guy next to me (who was like more than 6 feet tall and could barely fit in with such minimal legroom) totally turned around and looked at me funny. Fail. Then I bumped my head into the drop-down TV monitor above my row twice—once when leaving to go use the lavatory, and once when returning to my seat. Utter fail. I also struggled while filling out the immigration forms for entering Vietnam and had to ask for a new form because I miswrote something on the first one. Damn, this sort of long distance traveling can really get to you.


As we began descending into Hanoi, I noticed that the landscape was lush green with farm fields, pockmarked with bumps all over that were mountains and hills. These mountains didn't rise gently and smoothly from the surface--they literally looked like bumps. The only area I knew where these kinds of formations occurred was in Guangxi Province in China. The TV monitor then showed briefly our flight path before turning off, and I saw that we indeed flew into Guangxi, reached the capital Nanning, and then turned southwest again into Vietnam. The greenness continued all the way till touchdown. There were farms and rivers and roads, as well as cute block houses and some large factories. The outskirts of Hanoi was so beautiful!! It still hadn't hit me that I was in Vietnam, a completely foreign country, and that I was to live here for the next 4+ months. Weird.


We found ourselves in a very new-looking terminal after disembarking, and amidst very hot weather. It was only 10 AM but it was already 93 degrees Fahrenheit. Chau went first in the immigration line and went through pretty smoothly. The same thing couldn't be said about me though. The officer took a look at my visa, and then summoned another officer standing nearby to show it to him. They then said something in Vietnamese (which of course I couldn't understand), and the second officer told me to follow him. Uh oh, I thought. The officer led me to the other end of the terminal where the on-site visa application office was and went inside, while I waited outside. I began to mildly panic that there was something wrong with my visa and that I was gonna get arrested or detained or deported or something. But I thought again, it was the San Francisco office that issued that visa, so if anything it would be their fault, not mine. I was still pretty nervous though, since they wouldn't tell me what the fuck was going on. I looked into the office, and saw that my passport was passed around to three different officers, all looking at it and fiddling with their computers. The officer that took me here then came out and mumbled to me something in English (I think), which I did not understand. He then walked away. Still confused and angry, I waited for another 5 minutes before an officer came out and handed my passport back, along with a new visa on a larger sheet of paper. He told me in broken English that this was my new visa, and I was allowed to go now. I was still utterly confused, but relieved that the "ordeal" was over, so I quickly headed over to the immigration line and passed through seamlessly. I opened up my passport to find that the original visa had been stamped "canceled."


Chau and I then grabbed our luggages and met up with the rest of the EAPers. It turned out we were the last ones to arrive that morning. I finally met Gerard, the program director, and he took us to go exchange some money. I gave away all USD 60 that I had and got in return about VND 1068000. I was hella confused, and realized that in order to survive with this ridiculous currency, I would need to bust out those math skills that I had way back in high school. Wonderful.


We were all driven into Hanoi city on a minibus, while our luggages traveled in a small truck. Along the way, I tried my best to let the city soak in. The scenery, although new, still seemed familiar to me. It looked a lot like Taiwan's countryside, with the green pastures and small houses lined up along the highway. There were also hella billboards along the way, mostly advertising foreign companies investing in Vietnam.

A Korean investor ad along the highway. There are hella Korean stores in Hanoi.


After a while of driving, we were finally entering Hanoi city. We went on a bridge to cross the Song Hong (Red River), Hanoi's critical lifeblood. Apparently the river was named "Red" due to its high silt content. The silt washes down from the highlands and accumulates here, and people collect the silt from the river and use it as construction material. Hanoi is located on the right bank of the river.


Hanoi city is a very interesting sight. I'm used to seeing skyscrapers, shiny office towers, luxury apartment complexes, and elevated expressways and rails dominating a cityscape like how it is in Taipei. Hanoi is quite different. There were not as many tall buildings around, mostly just traditional houses around four stories tall. The roads also shoot up yellow dust as we drove on. Then there's the traffic, which is like a motorist's hell.

Ah mopeds! As common (and dangerous) here as in Taiwan.


We arrived at our dormitory at Hanoi University (HANU), D11, which is actually called "Nha Khach," or "guest house." We soon found out why it was called this. We were supposed to be in an actual international dorm like previous years, but due to a great influx of Chinese students, the housing situation had been tight, "forcing" us into the dorm that was reserved only for governmental officials and diplomats who were at the university for training. Therefore our living situation is actually much better than it ever was for EAPers. Even though we are squeezed 3 into a room, the room is hella gigantic, fully stocked with an individual bathroom, closets, desks, beds, a TV, a fridge, air conditioning, fans, and desklamps. This year our program has 6 males and 12 females, making the roommate arrangement perfect. My roommates are Chanh (we actually sort of picked each other since we were both wearing white v-necks and black-rimmed glasses, hella funny), and Scott, who has actually been here for 2 months already working.


The first thing we did was shower to get the annoying sweat off. It is now about 97 or 98 degrees and pretty much maximum humidity. However just like in Taiwan, we began sweating immediately after showering. We then went downstairs to have some sandwiches and to chat with Gerard, who then took a bunch of us to a nearby cafe to have iced tea (and beer). It felt like a lazy hot afternoon, sitting in the cafe and drinking iced drinks. It was a wonderful feeling. Life in Hanoi sure is different from Taiwan or America, where lives are governed according to schedules and appointments.


At 4 PM, all of the students met downstairs at the lobby for an introductory session thingy for the program. Since the heat was unbearable, we decided to move the meeting to someone's room so we can get air conditioning. The meeting was pretty long, and by the end people were pretty much passed out on beds due to jetlag/long flights. Gerard then took us to a restaurant in the city called Chim Sao (I think it means parrot), and basically treated us to a full-on Vietnamese dinner with drinks. We had to take off our shoes since we had to sit on the floor on cushions; it kind of looked like a Japanese restaurant in that respect. The food was damn amazing. We started off with some shots of Vietnamese distilled alcohol and this iced tea made from a local tree. The alcohol tasted like Chinese medicine, but it wasn't too strong so it was ok. Then came a salad dish with goi cuon (spring rolls), followed by duck, pork, some sort of vegetable, fried tofu, fish, soup, and this vegetable-thing that I didn't like. This was my first meal in Vietnam, and it was perfect. It definitely got me excited for the rest of the trip and all the food that is waiting for me to devour.

Goi cuon. Much smaller (but tastier) than those in America!


The restaurant didn't have air conditioning, so by the end we were all dripping sweat and suffering from severe food coma (in addition to jetlag/exhaustion from the loooong day!). Some of us decided to go to Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Returned Sword) to walk around, but most of us including me decided to go back and crash. However our bus driver was nice enough to take a detour to the lake so we could at least see what it looks like at night, which was pretty gorgeous.


Day 1 in Vietnam: I survived! I guess I worried too much. Really, a lot of Hanoi reminded me of Taiwan, particularly the air pollution, heat, humidity, openness and kindness of locals, and just the overall atmosphere of the city. I already feel at-home in many ways. I just need to get my Vietnamese skills up a notch so I can communicate with the locals! Either way, the trip has been amazing so far, and everyone in the program is hella nice. I can't wait for the remaining 4+ months.